Attempting to prepare different types of cuisine is part of the joy of learning to cook. Such efforts can also be a great way to learn about other cultures and their traditions. Those who want to explore the culinary traditions of Japan should consider the following recipe for Chilled Braised Winter Melon With Crab Sauce, courtesy of Takashi Sugimoto and Marcia Iwatates Shunju: New Japanese Cuisine (Tuttle Publishing).
Serves 4
11 ounces togan (wax gourd/winter melon), cut in 2 1/2-inch squares, peeled
2 quarts water
4 cups Katsuo Dashi (bonito stock) (see below)
2 1/2 tablespoons mirin
2 1/2 tablespoons usukuchi shoyu (light soy sauce)
Pinch natural sea salt
1 ounce menegi (Welsh onion sprouts), substitute with chives
Crab Sauce
1 1/4 cups Katsuo Dashi
2 teaspoons mirin
2 teaspoons usukuchi shoyu (light soy sauce)
1/2 cup king or snow crabmeat
1 egg, beaten
3 tablespoons katakuri starch, substitute with potato starch
2 tablespoons water
Pinch natural sea salt
1. To prepare the crab sauce, bring the Katsuo Dashi, mirin, and usukuchi shoyu to a boil over high heat. When it reaches a boil, lower the heat to medium and add the crabmeat. Skim off the foam that rises to the surface. Slowly pour in the beaten egg in a fine stream in a circular motion so that it becomes fluffy. Dissolve the starch in 2 tablespoons water and stir in a little at a time, checking the thickness so that it does not become clumpy or too thick. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
2. To prepare the gourd, bring the water to a boil and boil the gourd until it is easily pierced with a bamboo skewer or fork, about 5 minutes. Drain in a colander and cool in iced water.
3. Bring the Katsuo Dashi, mirin and usukuchi shoyu to a boil over high heat. Add the gourd and, when it returns to a boil, lower the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Remove from the heat and set the pot in a large bowl filled with ice water and cool.
4. Arrange the gourd on a platter and cover with the sauce. Garnish with the Welsh onion sprouts. Note: As togan is very large, serve the dish in the hollowed gourd. Slice off the top, about 8 inches down, then cut a smaller slice off the bottom to enable it to stand. Scoop out the seeds and pulp. Alternatively, slice the whole gourd in half and make two serving dishes.
Katsuo Dashi
1/2 ounce dashi konbu (dried kelp)
4 cups water
5 cups dried bonito flakes, without bloodline
1. Gently wipe the sheet of konbu with a clean damp cloth or paper towel to remove the grit. The flavorful white powder on the surface should not be wiped off. Place konbu in a pot with water.
2. Heat the water and konbu over medium-high heat. When the surface starts to foam, slightly lower the heat.
3. Just before the water reaches a full boil, remove konbu and reserve.
Boiling konbu imparts a bitter flavor. Skim the foam off the surface with a ladle.
4. Add dried bonito flakes.
5. When the water starts to boil, lower the heat and maintain a wavering surface. Simmer for 5 or 6 minutes, skimming the foam off the surface with a ladle.
6. Turn off the heat.
7. When the bonito flakes sink to the bottom, immediately strain in a sieve lined with sarashi (a kind of thin cotton cloth) or paper towel.